by Umberto Gambino
Seville isn’t just flamenco and the scent of orange blossoms; today it’s also the stage for a culinary revolution known as Abantal , derived from the Old Castilian word delantal , meaning “apron.” In this designer haven where bamboo, Corten steel, and oak coexist in a minimalist embrace, chef Julio Fernández Quintero demonstrates that to soar, you need deep roots.
Julio is not your usual “star” chef.
He is a passionate professional who in 2004 bet everything on a bold idea: taking the age-old Andalusian tradition—the product of Arab influences and centuries of history—and projecting it into the future. Abantal represents the excellence of contemporary Andalusian cuisine, with an innovative approach that highlights the region’s typical flavors. 
The result? A Michelin star that has shone uninterrupted since 2009 and two Suns from the Repsol Guide , Spain’s national guide.
His kitchen is an open space, not just architecturally, but mentally. A true journey from the heart to the plate. At Abantal, seasonal produce is sacred: whether it’s an oyster enriched with microalgae or a suckling pig with paprika cream, every ingredient is treated with almost religious respect.
If you really want to feel the heartbeat of the restaurant, the Chef’s Table is the place of honor. Here, up to ten lucky diners can spy on the tireless workings of the kitchen, interacting directly with Julio. It’s a living experience, where refined technique blends with the direct narration of the person who conceived and created each dish.
Ethics and relaxation: the secret to success
But Abantal isn’t just fine dining; it’s also a model of human management. Julio has courageously chosen to close on weekends , a rarity in the industry, to ensure balance and quality of life for his team. A happy staff cooks better, and it shows. Not only that: the chef’s heart also beats for social causes. We’re pleased to recall the 2018 publication of the book “Recetas con Alma” (“Recipes with Soul”), created by Quintero with photographer Jaime Martínez, in support of the Seville Food Bank: all proceeds from sales go to help people in need.
The Menus: A Dive into the Flavors of the South
You can choose between two tasting menus, each offering a sensory journey, designed daily to showcase the seasonality and quality of the ingredients: a grand 12-course tasting menu (€120) paired with six selected wines (€180); or a 9-course tasting menu (€100) paired with five wines selected by the sommelier (€150). The dishes we sampled, a true delight for the palate, represent a synthesis of pure Andalusian tradition and innovation. We’re talking about dishes like oyster with microalgae and crispy cod skin, sea bass with a traditional Andalusian sauce, red tuna belly with ratatouille, wild mushrooms with egg yolk and Iberian pork fat (the absolute best for us!), venison stew with truffles, beef shoulder with eggplant and walnuts, suckling pig with paprika butter cream and chorizo sauce, passion fruit sorbet, and desserts featuring banana, coconut, juniper, and hazelnuts.
These are the pairing wines:
Bodegas Salado – Bayo Velo 2023 made from Garrido Fino grapes (Umbrete, Seville)
Zarate – Rias Baxas Val do Salnes 2023 made from Albarino grapes (Rias Baixas, Galicia)
Domaine Lafage – Cayrol 2023 made from Carignano grapes (Catalonia)
Hacienda Solano – Vinas Viejas 2022; Tempranillo grapes from old vines (Ribera del Duero)
P.X. El Maestro Sierra (Jerez) – aged for 15 years using the Solera method
Every bite is a tribute to the Andalusian land. If you’re passing through Seville and looking for an experience that nourishes not only the body but also the spirit, Abantal is your must-see.
Abantal
Calle Alcalde José de la Bandera, 7 y 9, 41003, Sevilla – Tel. +34 954 54 00 00
https://abantalrestaurante.es/