by Umberto Gambino
The fifth edition of the event will take place in the Fontanafredda Storytelling Village, marking the first municipal mention of Barolo.
Preview of the 2023 vintage, comparison with Montalcino, and a charity dinner for the Accademia della Vigna.
In Serralunga d’Alba, Nebbiolo grows with the character of those who are in no hurry: structured wines, made to wait. Five years ago, the town’s producers decided to give this identity a regular event, a place where critics, press, and operators could measure themselves against the municipal mention. On Monday, September 14, Serralunga Day returned to the Fontanafredda Storytelling Village with a preview of the 2023 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba . The day opened in memory of Carlo Petrini, with a reflection on the history and ethical dimension of the Langhe entrusted to Luca Martinotti, vice president of Slow Food Italy, and Paolo Tibaldi, who with Petrini co-authored Vite di Langa .
Barolo 2023: Less Muscle, More Pace
The blind tasting was led by Masters of Wine Gabriele Gorelli and Andrea Lonardi, along with Canadian critic Michaela Morris. The “portrait of the vintage” shared between producers and the press speaks of “unexpected freshness, balance, savory flavors, and crisp, textured tannins. The result is a vintage that is enjoyable to drink without sacrificing longevity, despite a less than linear climate. In tasting, the 2023 appeared ” a heterogeneous vintage, with light fruit and tannins of silent density, never rustic or astringent, almost playful”. Those seeking powerful wines will have to look elsewhere: these are Barolos crafted with restraint, with a lean structure and intermediate tension, already enjoyable but with untapped potential. Of the twenty-five wines tasted, some were barrel-aged samples and will be released in January 2027.
Our 13 best tastings
Villadoria – For us, the best of the lot. Violets and red fruit on the nose, followed by a lovely balsamic and tobacco note. The palate is composed, elegant, and fresh, with fine tannins and a harmony that doesn’t need to be overdone.
Giovanni Rosso – A floral and linear nose, opening onto spices, earth, and Mediterranean scrub. On the palate, it’s powerful and intense, with lovely tannins and a chocolate finish. It’s ready to drink quickly, but has a long way to go.
Mauro Veglio – Flowers and fresh red fruit, with sweet and airy notes. The palate is full-bodied and lively, with lively tannins. The finish is long: a hint of alcohol on the finish is balanced by a distinct return of red fruit.
Domenico Clerico – The floral nose is a bit closed at first, then opens up to cloves, vanilla, tobacco, and a balsamic finish. The palate is warm and full-bodied, held in place by freshness, with a smooth finish of sweet fruit.
Luigi Baudana – Red fruit and fresh flowers, followed by sweet spices and myrtle. The palate is composed, with pleasant, fresh, and savory tannins and medium length. This is a modern Barolo that’s already on point.
Fontanafredda – The bouquet plays on spices and medicinal herbs, including rosemary and rhubarb. On the palate, it’s savory and fresh, with fine tannins. A vertical, dynamic, and long-lasting wine.
Tenuta Cucco – Peppery and spicy nose, with floral notes and a light balsamic touch. The palate is full-bodied and fresh, with well-defined tannins. It is complex, long, and pleasant.
Palladino – Spicy and aromatic notes stand out in the glass, with a generous nose. The palate is rich yet supple, fresh and savory, medium-bodied, and with pleasant tannins. It is the prototype of a typical Barolo.
Ettore Germano – A textbook fresh, floral, and fruity nose. The tannins are dusty but refined, with good concentration, freshness, and flavor. It appears a bit formulaic, but it’s a pleasant wine with definite aging potential.
Cascina Adelaide – Spicy, peppery, slightly smoky, with a lovely floral note. The palate is taut and dynamic, with well-balanced acidity and balance. It’s worth remembering that this is a barrel-aged sample.
Damilano – Fresh fruit and flowers, spices and medicinal herbs. The palate is full-bodied, intense, and savory, with noble, fine, and balanced tannins. Long finish.
Podere Gagliassi – On the nose, blackberry jam, balsamic notes, and blood orange. The palate is full-bodied and fresh, with firm tannins. A wine with strong character.
Garesio – Floral, spicy, and occasionally aromatic notes. The taste is composed, balanced, and lively, with precise tannins. The sip flows with a pleasant caress on the palate. Elegant.
Barolo and Brunello, parallels that struggle to meet
The most anticipated masterclass had a Euclidean-sounding title: “The Potential of Time: Two Parallel Lines That Converge Over Time.” The tasting included fourteen Barolos from the great Serralunga crus and fourteen Brunello di Montalcino , with vintages dating back to the 1990s. Among the bottles, a 1996 Fontanafredda stood out, alongside Brunellos of similar but not identical age, sometimes as much as five years younger. Geometry, however, is a rigorous discipline. Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, Langhe and Tuscany, two different disciplines: there were too many variables for the comparison to become a true comparison. It was more of an exercise in style, made even quicker by such sparing pours that each glass seemed more like a smear of red than a glass of wine.
However, there are still some top-level bottles: the 2011 Barolo by Domenico Clerico, the 2015 Brunello Poggio alle Mura by Banfi,
Argiano’s 2016 and Camigliano’s 2019 “Paesaggio Inatteso.” Two observations also came from the Masters of Wine table. The first: “Only the structure of the grape variety, as in the case of Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, guarantees longevity.” The second, more provocative: “The style of Barolo is a decade ahead of that of Brunello.” In Montalcino, you can bet, someone will have something to say. And the Masters of Wine mentioned several times the Italian backbone of reds, which includes, in addition to Nebbiolo (Barolo) and Sangiovese (Brunello), also Nerello Mascalese (the unwelcome guest).
The institutional alliance proved even more successful. The collaboration between the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani and the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino , established last year, has strengthened. This was also evident in the afternoon Portfolio Tasting, open to enthusiasts for the first time, which brought producers into direct contact with 400 restaurateurs and wine lovers.
Magnum and solidarity under the stars of the Garden
The closing event was the “Serralunga meets Montalcino in Magnum” Charity Dinner , held in Fontanafredda’s Garden del Lago. The table featured 2022 magnums from 25 Barolo producers and 17 Brunello producers, accompanied by cuisine from Guido Ristorante, Osteria Tre Case, and Enoteca Centro Storico. All proceeds will go to the Accademia della Vigna , a local project that trains those who work among the vines and promotes skilled work, autonomy, and social sustainability. This is the best news of the evening, and it deserves to be highlighted. The rest of the menu is cause for a few raised eyebrows. From a region like the Langhe, a more faithful gastronomic narrative was expected. The ravioli featured parmesan cheese, reassuring and nationally popular, but not very Langhe-specific. The tricolor roasted eggplant appetizer was a beautiful visual highlight, but the burrata and basil pesto took the dish several kilometers away from Piedmont. Veal tongue is a traditional dish, but certainly not universally popular. Even the Acquerello risotto with fresh tomato and basil, served at a light lunch, was decidedly al dente and didn’t impress. There was also some uncertainty regarding the seating arrangements at the large table seating 150 people. The Italian press found itself facing groups of consumers, and the conviviality, which is half the menu at such a dinner, suffered somewhat. Never mind: the charitable purpose remains, and it’s worth more than a successful risotto.
Two territories, one vision
For Sergio Germano , president of the Consortium for the Protection of Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe and Dogliani, the fifth edition
demonstrates “the interest of the entire sector (media, trade and public) in municipal mentions”. According to Germano, these mentions “they deeply express the territoriality and at the same time make it easier to read”.
Giacomo Bartolommei, president of the Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino Wine, talks about “A meeting that, in its second year, turns into a journey. Montalcino and the Langhe.”, he claims, “They are dedicated and distinctive businesses, capable of building a heritage recognized throughout the world. Coming together helps us understand the changes together and present ourselves on international markets with authority and coherence.”
Andrea Farinetti, the host at Fontanafredda, champions the growth of Serralunga Day alongside the winemaking community. For him, it’s “an event that showcases the region through its wines, but also through its people and relationships. The friendship with Montalcino, he adds, extends the narrative beyond a single vintage.”
In the end, what remains is the image of a country that has learned to speak with one voice.
These are the companies that participated.
Barolo producers in the municipality of Serralunga d’Alba: Alessandro Rivetto, Angelo Negro, Anselma, Cantina del Nebbiolo, Cascina Adelaide, Ca’ Rome’, Damilano, Domenico Clerico, Ettore Germano, Ferdinando Principiano, Fontanafredda, Franco Boasso, Garesio, Giovanni Rosso, Luigi Baudana, Luigi Vico, Mauro Veglio, Palladino, Paolo Manzone, Pico Maccario, Podere Gagliassi, Tenuta Cucco, Tenuta Rocca, Villadoria, Vite Colte.
The producers of Brunello di Montalcino: Argiano, Banfi, Camigliano, Caprili, Carpineto, Casanuova delle Cerbaie, Col d’Orcia, Corte Pavone, Croce di Mezzo, Ferrero, La Fortuna, Palazzo, Podere Brizio, Poggio Antico, Querce Bettina, Tassi, and Uccelliera.