by Umberto Gambino
Sicily, as we know, is a unique winemaking continent. A place where geography is destiny: the altitude of Chiaramonte Gulfi is not the same as the salty breeze that caresses the Aeolian Islands, and the lava soils of Etna have nothing in common with the limestone-clay countryside of Vittoria. Yet, there are those who still reduce this “island-world” to the Etna narrative alone. Wrong. Sicily is much, much more. The 2026 edition of Sicilia en primeur proved this—once again—without need for appeal. The perfect opportunity to taste the oenological kaleidoscope of Trinacria, traversing whites, reds, passitos, and Marsalas from north to west, from east to south. Here are our 20 favorite wines. We’ve already written about Etna’s white and red wines .
Whites: when the Mediterranean can also be vertical
We begin with Zisola , an estate owned by the Tuscan Mazzei family in the heart of Syracuse, with its Contrada Zisola 2024 , a Catarratto IGT Terre Siciliane that strikes with its vivacity: peach, apple, kumquat, and a herbaceous note that doesn’t disturb, but rather punctuates the sip. Compact in body, bold in flavor. A well-rounded “gastronomic” wine. Traditional Syracuse seafood appetizers are a perfect match: marinated anchovies, raw red shrimp, and lightly fried mixed seafood.
The 2025 Midor Catarratto from Tenuta Gorghi Tondi , DOC Sicilia, changes tone but doesn’t let its guard down: here, pineapple and an aromatic note almost reminiscent of a country Gewürztraminer blend with a vertical structure and a citrusy finish that makes you want to try it even longer. It pairs perfectly with pasta with sardines, a signature dish of Sicilian cuisine, or with fish couscous Trapanese-style: it is the area, after all.
From the Aeolian island of Lipari, comes the voice of the true volcano: Tenuta di Castellaro offers its Bianco Pomice 2025 , 60% Malvasia delle Lipari, 40% Carricante. A chalky, smoky, spicy nose; a long, savory palate. The island in the glass. It demands fish: baked grouper, Sicilian-style snapper with capers and olives, or even just lightly seared red tuna.
Then there’s Planeta . Two labels, two styles, one certainty: the quality of this multifaceted winery’s wines never wanes.
The 2023 Didacus Chardonnay DOC Menfi plays the French-style complexity card—exotic fruit, butter, vanilla, and subtle yet elegant oak—with a mouth-filling, meaty palate. Its structure calls for substantial dishes, such as grilled lobster, porcini mushroom risotto, or even a good-quality soft cheese. The 2024 Cometa , a single-variety Fiano also from Menfi, instead opts for discreet elegance: light spices, an intense, long palate, and a savory flavor reminiscent of the sea—and it should be traced back to the sea, with stuffed squid and stewed cuttlefish. Two philosophies, equal excellence.
At Regaleali, Tasca d’Almerita presents its 2024 Vigna San Francesco Chardonnay : a fresh nose of white flowers and yellow fruit, a citrusy and balanced palate. The oak is present, but it’s quickly forgiven. A wine that pairs well with medium-bodied dishes: an octopus salad with potatoes and celery, or—why not?—an excellent buffalo mozzarella.
Among the most surprising of the bunch is the Serra Ferdinandea 2024 from the eponymous estate in Sambuca di Sicilia (a joint venture between Planeta and the French Oddo family): a Grillo and Sauvignon blend that tastes of kiwi, tomato leaves, thyme, and free-flowing vegetal notes. On the palate, it’s concentrated, almost volcanic. The word isn’t out of place even far from Etna. Its herbaceous streak and intense savory flavor make it a natural companion for fresh goat cheeses, grilled vegetables with extra virgin olive oil, or a plate of pasta with Bronte pistachio pesto.
In the mountains inland from Palermo, a stone’s throw from Piana degli Albanesi and at an altitude of 720-770 meters above sea level, Baglio di Pianetto bottles the Viafrancia Bianco 2023 DOC Sicilia: Grillo, Inzolia, and Catarratto in almost equal parts, with 25% of the wine aged in wood on the lees and the rest in stainless steel. At that altitude, Sicily already resembles something else. The result is a structured white wine, with depth and aromatic layers, where each grape variety contributes its own unique flavor before converging in the final blend. Class and craftsmanship find their ideal partner in a free-range chicken roasted with mountain herbs or a medium-aged caciocavallo.
And then there’s her. Arianna Occhipinti brings her SM—Santa Margherita 2024 , a single-vineyard Grillo IGT at 500 meters above sea level, in the Chiaramonte Gulfi area. Indigenous yeasts, a local approach, and cru ambition. The sensation is that of a chalky wine, mineral to the core, where the saltiness of the fossils surfacing in those soils is truly noticeable. Low alcohol, lots of personality. Occhipinti never ceases to amaze, and Chiaramonte—she herself says—has extraordinary potential for white wines that still have much to offer. At the table, a wine like this shouldn’t be overpowered: amberjack tartare with citrus and pink peppercorns.
The whites chapter concludes with Fazio ‘s 2025 Cale Bianche , a pure Catarratto from the Erice DOC region, sourced from hillside vineyards. Banana, pineapple, and a distinct flavor: a twenty-day early harvest—the first week of August, with its unforgiving heat—preserved the freshness that the grape struggles to maintain in other vintages. Perfect with swordfish alla ghiotta, a typical Trapani dish, or with eggplant caponata, where the sweet and sour flavors complement the tropical notes in the glass.
The reds: from Corinto Nero to Rosso del Conte, passing through the only DOCG
Among the reds, the first surprise is Corinto Nero , a grape variety of ancient origins, almost forgotten. Tenuta di Castellaro vinifies it as a single varietal in its Corinto 2022 IGT: smoky nose, dried flowers, and plum. The palate is concentrated, fresh, and intense. A wine that speaks of a Sicily that is archaic, pre-phylloxera, and proudly different. Precisely because of its wild and profound nature, it pairs well with grilled red meats, roast kid with potatoes, or Messina-style pork chops.
Then there’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the island’s only DOCG. Two interpretations: Casa Grazia ‘s 2021 Brunetti d’Opera , balsamic and spicy, with lively but not aggressive tannins—it pairs well with Sicilian-style meat ragù, pasta ‘ncasciata, or meatballs in tomato sauce—and Arianna Occhipinti ‘s 2021 Grotte Alte , which, with half Nero d’Avola and half Frappato from the Santa Teresa vineyard, offers the most refined portrait of this appellation. Long, savory, with prominent balsamic notes. A red with restraint—an increasingly rare quality—that pairs well with dishes of similar elegance: a rabbit terrine or quality artisanal cured meats.
Feudo Maccari ‘s Saia 2022 is Nero d’Avola at its peak: fresh fruit despite the heat of the harvest, noble tannins, and pure concentration on the palate. A sunny wine in the best sense of the word, it naturally finds its place with a grilled rib-eye steak or Nebrodi black pig sausage.
Among the many Nero d’Avola wines, the Cartagho 2021 Mandrarossa label from Cantine Settesoli stands out. It expresses itself with intense floral notes of violet, red cherry, and licorice. The palate is full-bodied, slightly old-fashioned, and harmonious, with a lovely return of fruit on the finish despite the still-young tannins. It pairs well with a rich baked pasta dish.
And then there’s the 2020 Rosso del Conte from Tasca d’Almerita (53% Nero d’Avola and 47% Perricone): aromatic herbs, rosemary, thyme, and medicinal herbs. Elegant, supple, consistent, and incredibly fresh on the palate. A Sicilian red that never shouts, making it a perfect match for refined local dishes: herb-crusted lamb with artichokes or roast veal with a red wine and bay leaf reduction.
Passiti and Marsala: the island that knows how to age
The tasting concludes with wines that, more than any other, demonstrate Sicily’s ability to be appreciated over time. And what time! 
Florio brings two Marsala Vergine Riservas to the table: the 2009 and the 2006. The first is an embrace of dried fruit, figs, carob, and roasted coffee, ample and savory, with a dry pastry finish that lingers on the palate. It’s ideal with mature hard cheeses, an aged Ragusano DOP, or on its own as a meditation wine. The second is more austere, almost brandy-like in its dryness: honey, hints of dried apricot, then a lively and very long finish. Venetian-style liver or duck liver pâté are not a heresy here, quite the opposite. Elegance without frills.
Pellegrino responds with his Single Barrel 2005 DOC Marsala: notes of rancio, chestnut, spices, and dried figs. Dry, savory, and intense. A sunny wine, in the most ancient sense of the word: that of a sun that never quite sets. A traditional companion to sweet and sour tuna and canned fish, but also to pasta with freshly grated tuna bottarga.
Donnafugata closes with a flourish with the Ben Ryé 2023 , Passito di Pantelleria: dried apricots, dates, and almond paste. Sweet but not cloying, as always, a certainty: this is the difference between a great passito and any dessert wine. Smooth, fresh, and long. Pantelleria in a glass. The classic pairing is with Sicilian cassata or the island’s traditional Arab almond desserts, but even on its own, at the end of a meal, it can complete the whole experience.
Sicily, as we were saying, is a continent. And like all continents, you never really stop exploring it.