Thu. Oct 31st, 2024

Salvioni, three family generations keep Brunello in the name of traditions

ByUmberto Gambino

24 October 2017
Salvioni

The Salvionis make wine for three generations in Montalcino. Grandfather Umberto Salvioni, an agricultural doctor, made wine for friends. But the “family affair” was consolidated and strengthened through the work of all components: Giulio Salvioni, son of founder Umberto, with his wife Mirella, and theirs sons: David, graduated on Agriculture, and Alessia, working on marketing, sales and administration. All together with a unique goal: produce a limited amount of excellent wines.  Now I can say that for over 30 years the Salvioni’s company called La Cerbaiola produces excellent wines and also long-life wines.

The first Cerbaiola Brunello was made in 1985 harvest. The 20 hectares of the Cerbaiola farm are rich in forests and look out over the Val d’Orcia from an altitude of 420 meters. The vineyards are located four kilometers to the southeast of Montalcino. There are the three small vineyards of Sangiovese grosso for a total of 4 hectares. The current production varies between 10,000 bottles in the vineyards where only Brunello is made and 15,000 in which there is also Rosso di Montalcino.

Most of the future wine is aged in 20 hl Slavonian oak barrels in the family cellar located in the historic center of Montalcino, just below the Salvioni’s house. Though the wine is actually bottled back at the Cerbaiola estate, it’s beneath house in town that it undergoes the necessary bottle ageing before being released. There is therefore a close link between the wine, the family and the town of Montalcino.

The main product of Salvioni is Brunello di Montalcino, vinified according to the traditional method, with the aging of Slavonia oak for at least 36 months. Brunello is not always possible to produce. In the vintages deemed unfit for Brunello, the whole harvest of the Sangiovese is destined for the Rosso di Montalcino.

My tasting notes. Brunello di Montalcino 2012 has a very intense nose featuring a nice piece of pepper, rosemary, incense, cloves and cinnamon. In the mouth wine is really “strong”, awesome, but well balanced: it travels by mouth on noble and finest tannins. Endless length and beautiful balsamic finish. I really love very much this Brunello! (tasting notes from “Benvenuto Brunello 2017”)

Some technical data: Vinification takes place in the cellar of the winery located next to the vineyards in 35-40 hl stainless steel vats and usually lasts 28-30 days depending on the vintage. Fermentation occurs naturally in the days following the harvest where there is no temperature control. After racking, the clean wine remains in the stainless steel vats for a few more months during which time the malolactic fermentation occurs very naturally before it is put in barrels. For ageing the wine, the winery has always used big 18-22hl medium toasted Slavonian oak barrels. The barrels are located in two cellars: one on the estate where the oldest barrels are kept while the newer barrels are in the cellar in the historic centre of Montalcino. Once Brunello has completed its ageing period in barrels, which often lasts up to 36 months, it is bottled where it ages until it.

Retail price: € 150 – $ 176. My rating 95/100

www.aziendasalvioni.com

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ByUmberto Gambino

Professional journalist and sommelier, from an early age I breathed the scents of the vineyard and tasted the wine in my grandfather's cellar, in Sicily. The multiple life and work experiences brought me first to Liguria, then to the capital. Roman by adoption, but always Sicilian at heart, I am always fascinated by the beauties of our Italy, between territories to explore and typical food and wine.