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Biondelli, Premiére Dame Brut and the new Franciacorta style, bio integral

ByUmberto Gambino

26 April 2017
Biondelli Franciacorta

On the ground of Franciacorta it has breathed new air for some time. Companies consolidate and live the passage of the witness with the new generations. One of the brightest examples of this new road is Joska Biondelli, a young virginal who from the finance environment has returned to family lands to manage a family-owned wine-growing tradition.

Joska did not abandon noble and elegant clothes, but decided to get her hands dirty, helping her concretely work in the vineyard and in the cellar started by her parents: father Carlottavio and his wife Mariella. He also joined with his brother Francesco.

The vineyards are located in Bornato, an ancient rural village whose territory develops from a hilly area and then descends along the beautiful valley that separates it from the neighboring countries of Cazzago San Martino and Calino. We are in the heart of Franciacorta. The name of Bornato would be derived from the Celtic Bor (“source”) as a testimony to the numerous sources still present in the area.

I’ve had the chance (and lucky) to taste the classic Biondelli Classical Methods sparkling wine, thanks to the lively communication work by Claudia Bondi, a good and professional Italian Champagne Ambassador, one of the bubbles of Class really intends to. One of these sparklers impressed me in a particular way.

I’m talking about the Premiere Dame Brut vintage 2001, from Chardonnay purely picked from the vineyards of the Nave resort, which remained in contact with the yeasts for 40 months: it is produced only in particular years without the addition of sugars and liqueur.

What emotions in the goblet? A delightful bouquet of hawthorn, whites, white plum, melted butter and iodinated notes that sails like a “safe ship” on a trail of high mineral profile and the unmistakable “marker” of liquorice, typical of the wines of this cellar. It’s really the mineral aspect the unmistakable sign of this bubble.

Pleasant sores, characterized by freshness and sapidity, measured and non-invasive. As in the character of his young producer. Let us eat it with olive and parmesan croutons. Is this the “nouvelle vague” of Franciacorta? I think so.

Some technical data: soft pressing and controlled temperature fermentation (14-15 °) in steel tub. In the spring after the bottling, the draw is made. Aging for 40 months in bottle for raging after the draw.

The company has been in organic farming since 2014

Retail price: € 35 – $ 38. My rating: 91/100

http://www.biondelli.com/it/home.html

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ByUmberto Gambino

Professional journalist and sommelier, from an early age I breathed the scents of the vineyard and tasted the wine in my grandfather's cellar, in Sicily. The multiple life and work experiences brought me first to Liguria, then to the capital. Roman by adoption, but always Sicilian at heart, I am always fascinated by the beauties of our Italy, between territories to explore and typical food and wine.