Among the many facets of the Chianti universe, a few selected examples of longevity stand out, crossing the last two centuries of history with great security. Today I am pleased to tell you the epic of the Riserva Ducale Oro of the Ruffino company which boasts an enviable record: it is the first Chianti Riserva to have been produced in 1877. After 146 years this winery is still today one of the largest producers of Chianti wines Classico and the Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro is one of its most famous products. A historic wine that marked an era, a noble nectar in the most genuine sense of the term. Subsequently, the Chianti Ruffino Riserva was called Ducale in honor of the Duke of Aosta, in 1927, who was madly in love with this wine, more than a beautiful woman to whom you give your heart.
The transition to Riserva Ducale Oro dates back to 1947, an exceptional wine year, so much so that Ruffino decided to produce a super edition of Riserva Ducale, celebrated precisely with a gold label. Packaging that has distinguished him over time and that we still see today characterizing the bottles.
In modern times there is much less talk of quarters of nobility and many things have changed. Ruffino is part of the American wine and spirits giant Constellation Brands, after a long period spent under Folonari ownership. But the nobility remains intact in the glass, which is the essence of a wine that carries a history behind it, even if we want to be revolutionary: the idea of creating a red wine born earlier as “Chianti stravecchio”, transformed over the years into Chianti Classico Riserva and from the 2014 vintage elevated to Gran Selezione, i.e. the top of the qualitative pyramid of Chianti Classico.
The tasting
A vertical view of 7 vintages through 50 years of history
The opportunity to take stock of the evolutionary potential of Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro was an extraordinary vertical tasting, celebrated in Rome, which brought together seven vintages of Chianti Classico Riserva and Gran Selezione of absolute value. It was presented by Sandro Sartor, president of Ruffino, Gabriele Tacconi, oenologist, and Francesco Sorelli, director of communications. The tasting was conducted with the usual skill by Daniele Cernilli.
In the first vintages proposed, white grapes are present in the blend (see Malvasia), which could be included up to 15% according to regulations. Since 1996 Chianti Classico has been produced exclusively with red grapes.
1977 Chianti Classico Riserva DOC
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia, 5% Colorino
Vineyards in Castello di Montemasso and San Polo in Chianti for this wine and for the vintages up to 1988. Medium-high hilly soils with soils that show a clayey-sandy texture, rich in texture and low fertility.
In the glass it is orange with a garnet edge. The nose is dominated by dry and highly evolved aromas of withered flowers, followed by sensations of carob and candied orange, tobacco leaves and a pinch of smoke, with a pleasant note of oxidation. In the mouth one perceives an endless freshness, intact, linear, clear while the tannin has practically disappeared. Lean and smooth sip. Chapeau for a 45-year-old wine, still perfectly intact.
Vinification notes: fermentation for about two weeks in vitrified cement vats. Aging for 12 months in large 80 hl Slavonian oak barrels, followed by further aging in cement vats.
1982 Chianti Classico Riserva DOC 
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia, 5% Colorino
Orange with a garnet edge. It spreads sweet sensations that sway from chocolate to prune, from licorice to tamarind to end up with dark chocolate. On the palate the tannic texture emerges light and gentle, but the characteristic is the intact freshness, combined with the sapidity with a hint of alcohol in the finish. Agile and streamlined to drink.
Fermentation for about two weeks in vitrified cement vats. Aging for 12 months in large 80 hl Slavonian oak barrels, followed by further aging in cement vats.
1988 Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG
Change the blend. 90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Malvasia.
Garnet in the glass, it is very spicy, with notes of pepper, licorice, small black fruits in jam, graphite. The taste is enveloping, fresh and savory, flowing on fine tannins, very pleasant and certainly harmonious.
Fermentation for 2 weeks in stainless steel vats. Aging for at least 12 months in large 80 hl Slavonian oak barrels followed by a further aging for 6 months in the bottle.
1996 Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG
90% Sangiovese 10% con Colorino, e Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon e Merlot
Compact and garnet colour. It has a very dark olfactory register centered on shades of licorice, pepper, incense, blackberry jam. In the mouth it is preferred for its great freshness a vivid but noble tannin, its roundness, dynamism, ease of drinking. Thanks perhaps and also to the decisive presence of international grapes. For me it is the best vintage of the lot. A change of gear in which we notice, for the first time, the absence of white grapes from the final blend.
Fermentation for 14 days in concrete vats followed by maceration on the skins for another 10 days. After the malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for about 24 months in 60 hl oak barrels and for 6 months in Allier and Troncais barriques, followed by further refinement in the bottle.
2005 Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
Vineyards in the Santedame estate, Castellina in Chianti: same land up to the most recent vintage
Garnet red. In the glass vegetal and spicy hints, a slight vanilla, hints of goudron and pepper. In the mouth it flows intensely, with a sharp freshness, with a nice nervous and angular tannin. A still extraordinarily young wine that can be drunk even in a few years.
Fermentation for 10 days in stainless steel vats. After the malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for about 36 months first in steel tanks, then in large oak barrels followed by a minimum aging period of 6 months in the bottle.
2015 Chianti Classico Grand Selection DOCG
85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 5% Colorino
Intense ruby red. On the nose aromas of vanilla, sweet spices, thyme and pepper, and aromatics such as rosemary. On the palate it is fresh, sapid, intense, concentrated, with a final alcoholic tip. Dynamic tannin. Young and to drink later in time, but with good evolutionary potential.
Fermentation in stainless steel vats for 10 days, maceration on the skins for another 15 days. After the malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 36 months (12 months in cement tanks, 12 months in large oak barrels and 12 months in second passage barriques and tonneaux).
2018 Chianti Classico Grand Selection DOCG 
83% Sangiovese, 12 100 Merlot, 5% Colorino
Clear ruby red. Woody and vanilla notes on the nose, followed by hints of spice, violet and blackberry. The taste already shows elegance (at least in this phase: the wine is an absolute preview), freshness and sapidity, richness of fruit. Overall it is fine, agile, but it can also be drunk in 3-4 years imagining that it will be even better. Overall an agile, balanced wine, despite the 14.5% alcohol and the fresh vintage.
Fermentation in stainless steel vats. Maceration on the skins for 21 days. At the end of the malolactic fermentation the wine was aged for 36 months (12 months in cement tanks, 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, 12 months in second passage barriques).