If one could speak of a “Super Marche” red, it would certainly have to be attributed to Il Pollenza from the company of the same name owned by the Brachetti Peretti family. It is here, between the Chienti river valley and the Adriatic Sea, that the 280-hectare estate (80 vineyards) extends in the municipalities of Tolentino and Pollenza, in a privileged geographical location, 30 km from the Adriatic Sea and 40 km from the Apennines. This is a wine with a clear Bordeaux style, born from the creativity of Giacomo Tachis, a Piedmontese winemaker among the greats of Italian winemaking, considered the father of the Super Tuscans. It was Count Aldo Brachetti Peretti, about twenty years ago, speaking with friends, who developed the conviction that his native land could have great potential, such as to be able to lead to the production of great Bordeaux blend red wines. A belief that soon married that of Giacomo Tachis. It was a quick and decisive affair: the Count had the cuttings of the Bordeaux cultivars purchased, traced the planting layouts, reintroduced the cement tanks and tried his hand at the enterprise. The first vintage produced of Il Pollenza Marche Rosso IGT was 2001, the first of the new millennium, obviously under the direction of Tachis. Thus was born the elegant and austere expression in the glass of a real “corner of Bordeaux” made in Marche. Since 2007 the wine maker has been the Tuscan Carlo Ferrini, who focuses on absolute elegance for his wines, assisted by the company oenologists Mauro Giacomini and Carlo Del Bianco.
Recently, in the splendid setting of a Roman villa, I had the opportunity to participate in an exceptional vertical of seven vintages, conducted by the well-known wine critic Daniele Cernilli, which was attended by Count Aldo himself, his wife Mila, Carlo Ferrini and other representatives of the Brachetti Peretti family. Here is the detail of the tasting.
Vertical Il Pollenza – Brachetti Peretti – Marche IGT Rosso
The basic vinification notes (slightly variable according to the vintage): 15 months of maturation in French oak tonneaux, then at least 24 months of refinement in the bottle. The starting blend consisted mostly of Cabernet Sauvignon and then by smaller percentages of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the classic Bordeaux blend. Petiti Verdot has also been introduced since 2008; Merlot has not been used since the 2015 vintage. Here are the seven vintages in detail.
2006 CS 70 ME 17 CF 13
Dense garnet in the glass, it opens into small dark fruits such as blueberry, then advances on spicy and black pepper notes, veers on balsamic with an evident aroma of eucalyptus and shades of black chocolate. In the mouth there is still intact freshness, with present and fine tannins, good structure for a not excessive sip that delicately massages the palate. Balanced and intact in its taste-olfactory essence.
2008 CS 65 ME 18 CF 10 PV 7
Compact and bright garnet. Sweet spices, Mediterranean scrub and mushrooms are immediately noticeable, alternating with blueberry and dark currant. The sip is clear and lively; it expands in progression on soft and well blended tannins; the drink closes in a nervous but elegant finish. It is still young with a lot to offer its admirers.
2010 CS 60 ME 20 CF 15 PV 5
Dense ruby red with a purplish edge. The nose is intense and composite, with various facets. Sweet spices, blueberry, cassis, raspberry, licorice and a clear balsamic matrix prevail. Rich, full, soft and enveloping mouthfeel, with silky tannins, the quintessence of the elegance desired by Carlo Ferrini for his wines, aided – in my opinion – also by a good percentage of Franc. Very long persistence. Top wine among the seven!
2012 CS 65 ME 20 CF 10 PV 5
Defined as a hot and difficult vintage, it shows nuances of blackberries, cassis syrup, red fruit in alcohol, leather and tobacco leaves. In the mouth the tannin is more alive, with a certain astringency, less solid in the soft notes. Overall, a wine that could come off the distance.
2015 CS 90 ME 7 PV 3
On the nose raspberry, aromatic herbs, Mediterranean scrub, sweet tobacco, humid notes. Taste that starts soft and full of heat, then flows fresh, sapid, with a clearly fruity final trail. Slender, agile, medium-bodied, it can be drunk a lot.
2016 CS 92 CF 5 PV 3
The note of wood is slightly felt with a pinch of vanilla that peeps out and then recomposes itself, then here is a nice mix of black pepper, juniper, goudron. Decisive sip, which travels on nervous but noble tannins thanks to the great freshness. It is intense, elegant, red fruit returns in the finish. Still young but with great potential.
2019 CS 90 CF 7 PV 3
Barrell sample (not on the market) tasted in absolute preview. Clear notes of fresh rose and dark cherry, accompanied by a slight spicy crown. Taste that denotes great freshness, sapidity, intensity for a sip that has some roughness to smooth out and concentration of fruit. Is long. We see great potential for what promises to be a beautiful, modern and elegant wine.
In all the wines you can appreciate the careful and never invasive use of wood: always tonneaux of 500 hl.
www.ilpollenza.it