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Quarta Generazione and Giovanna Paternoster’s Aglianico: new air in Vulture

ByUmberto Gambino

4 November 2017
Giovanna Paternoster

Today, I talk about a wine that was born in one of the smallest regions of southern Italy: Basilicata. Aglianico del Vulture it’s (that’s cousin of the homonymous wine and vine of Campania) and only here, in Vulture area, it has unique characteristics. Some geographical notes: the Basilicata region borders with Campania, Apulia and Calabria. The Aglianico vine originates in the territory at the slopes of a prehistoric volcano that has been extinguished for millennia, Mount Vulture, which reaches 1,326 meters above sea level. This area, particularly for wine growing, is located in the northern part of the region, in the province of Potenza. Right here, forty wineries work about 1,500 hectares of vineyards and produce about 2,5 million bottles of Aglianico del Vulture DOC each year.

So, between the two ancient lava flows now solidified, at ​​Macarico area, 500 meters above sea level, in the municipality of Barile, only a year ago the company Quarta Generazione was born. “Quarta Generazione” (means Fourth Generation) that has face and soul Giovanna Paternoster. But “Quarta Generazione” is also the name of wine – Aglianico del Vulture Doc, of course – about I want to describe now. It’s the first wine produced, with its first vintage, just 2013, just released on the market.

Giovanna Paternoster with Quarta Generazione 2013

Why wine and cellar have the same name? Why this chosen? It is explained by Giovanna, 31, a young descendant of a family who did the Aglianico story in Basilicata:

“Fourth Generation represents the evolution and enrichment of my family’s history through my way of living life, wandering and at the same time strongly anchored to its roots.”

For these reasons new air is breathing in the Vulture. Giovanna, a graduate in communication and marketing sciences, lives between Berlin, Milan and a little town Barile. Collects in her the heritage of three generations in wine world. Giovanna’s passion was born with her grandfather Giuseppe (second family generation) and continued and became stronger with her father, Sergio Paternoster, an oenologist.
Currently, Giovanna make better known, to tell, to present – in summary – “to communicate” at her best – her unique wine, at the time, all over the world.  Aglianico wine originates from three hectares of vineyards, like the three generations that preceded it: all this is due, according to Giovanna, to the fruit of deep knowledge of the territory and of a scrupulous selection of grapes that then give rise to wine. “Quarta Generazione” makes organic wines.

All details in winery work are played to perfection. That’s reflected in Giovoanna Paternoster’s tenacity, dynamism and obstinacy. For example, the bottle label is very clear and clean: the manual writing of the word “Quarta” recalls the long history and tradition of wine that continues in a young wine-making reality. There’s no emblem because only wine is the protagonist. On a white background stands a drop of red watercolor, symbolizing the strong personality of Aglianico, immediately recognizable by the first sip: that’s a soft brush that carries with it all the shades typical of the vine. Instead retro label tells the territory in the heart of southern Italy.

My tasting notes. I had the pleasure and the honor to taste the wine together the young producer. Wine in the glass shows beautiful ruby ​​red color, impenetrable to light. With the smell the 2013 vintage reveals balance and liveliness: characteristic large bouquet, blackberry jam, berries, red orange, licorice, officinal spices. The sip is light (not opulent), fine, harmonious, elegant. I appreciate silky and well-worked tannins. But this wine is not a “sitting” Aglianico del Vulture, on the contrary it’s especially lissome and snappy. Nice idea: it’s certainly an important red wine that can be drunk in the evening, in front of a hot fireplace. A beautiful red “intimist” wine, perfectly matching to the territory.

This wine represents the essence of volcanic and mineral terroirs. It’s a long-lasting red that can last over time, even 15-20 years.

Some technical data: First fermentation takes place in small tanks at controlled temperature. Then make the delestage and the maceration that allows better extraction of the soluble substances. The second fermentation takes place in wood and then the wine remains for 12 months in the same barrels and refined on noble lees to soften the bouquet. Then it goes to bottling and to a further glass refinement for 6 months. Therefore pass three years after the vintage before wine was put on sale. Only 20,000 bottles produced.

Retail price: € 20 – $ 26; My rating: 92/100

www.quartagenerazione.com

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ByUmberto Gambino

Professional journalist and sommelier, from an early age I breathed the scents of the vineyard and tasted the wine in my grandfather's cellar, in Sicily. The multiple life and work experiences brought me first to Liguria, then to the capital. Roman by adoption, but always Sicilian at heart, I am always fascinated by the beauties of our Italy, between territories to explore and typical food and wine.