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Boroli – Cerequio 2012, the young and impudent Barolo aiming high

ByUmberto Gambino

18 February 2017
Barolo Cerequto

Today’s top wine comes from the vineyard of Cerequio hill, 300 meters above sea level, shared by the towns of Barolo and La Morra, in the province of Cuneo (Piedmont region, North-West Italy). This is the historical Langhe area, recognized as a world heritage site by UNESCO. The Cerequio is a first class cru vineyard: the Boroli-owned Nebbiolo grapes are grown in the municipality of Barolo.

The Cerequio Barolo, produced by several different wineries in the area, is always synonymous with quality; Boroli wine is no exception, and is in fact considered one of the best Barolos on the market.  I was personally offered a taste of this wine by Achille Boroli, owner of the winery, who impressed me with his passion for presenting his product.

The Boroli family started its activity in the nineteenth century, in the textile industry, then moved to publishing (De Agostini Group, famous for its excellent maps). Inspiration struck  in the ‘90s, and it led the Boroli to purchase vineyards in the Langhe, in the three classic Barolo municipalities: Castiglione Falletto (a vineyard called Cascina La Brunella), La Morra (Cascina Sorello) and Barolo itself (Cerequio). The production winery is located in Cascina La Brunella.

Now is probably the time for a brief rundown of the general features found in Cerequio cru Barolo wines.

The area hosts an extraordinary microclimate, all the better to develop and enhance the best qualities of the vineyard: the old townsfolk have given this place the nickname “Riviera delle Langhe” (“Langhe Coastline”) because of how quickly the snow melts. The soil is clay-based, with deposits of blue marl and sandy limestone. The average vine is aged 30 years.

Here are my thoughts on the Cerequio 2012 Boroli.

Although it is relatively young (pretty much a “baby”) it exhibits vibrancy, elegance, and a great potential longevity in the chalice. It smells of violet flower, cherry, cinnamon, spices such as cloves, on a background of well blended Mediterranean and medical herbs. The balmy component is evident. They are fresh aromas that are sure to develop properly over the years. The taste is fruity, very fresh, with a slight mineral component derived from the soil. The taste is very persistent and very satisfying for the senses. Even if drunk after 5-15 years this wine will no doubt still have its taste intact, if not even enhanced.

Some technical details: fermentation in stainless steel at controlled temperature for 10-12 days, then on its lees for 20-25 days, followed by racking. After malolactic fermentation in small oak barrels for no shorter than two years, the wine is poured in barriques. The wine is finally sold after one year of aging in the bottle.

Price retail:  € 80 – $ 85. My rating: 94/100  

www.boroli.it

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ByUmberto Gambino

Professional journalist and sommelier, from an early age I breathed the scents of the vineyard and tasted the wine in my grandfather's cellar, in Sicily. The multiple life and work experiences brought me first to Liguria, then to the capital. Roman by adoption, but always Sicilian at heart, I am always fascinated by the beauties of our Italy, between territories to explore and typical food and wine.